Bubaque, Guinea-Bissau

Bijagos, Guiné-Bissau. 28th July, 1989

One young Bijagos girl challenged me to don such a skirt. To general amusement but Gérard’s embarrassment, I substituted my shorts with the minuscule frill. Although I was wearing a bikini considered prudish by Brazilian standards, the virtually naked women were amazed at the sight of so much white flesh. Willing hands helped to tie the skirt. Their excited chattering built up to a puzzling crescendo, until another frill was produced to hide my bottom peeping shamelessly below the hemline of the first.

The headman, a wizened gentleman with few teeth and grisly grey hair, led us to a sacred hut built of palm fronts, completely enclosed on all sides like a chicken coop. Chanting ceremoniously, he smeared greasy black paste between the big toes of our right feet. Alberto explained that this was a blessing for “muita comida”, plenty of food. This coming from a people whose lives centred on the daily struggle to provide sufficient food, it was a wish that we would never go hungry, equivalent to a blessing for the greatest riches.

From the book Freedom of the Skies

Bijagos, Guiné-Bissau. Bijagos, Guiné-Bissau. Bubaque, Guiné-Bissau.

Glimpses of the journey:

Map of route flown around the world

List of Destinations

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